Known as the Cutud Lenten Rites, the grizzly amateur performance is played out in front of huge crowds, and broadcast on local television. After the first crucifixion, many more worshippers are also raised onto the crosses.
With nails driven through their palms, they hang in the fierce sun for several minutes before they are brought down and rushed over to a medical tent.
The flagellation takes place as the stage is prepared for the Passion. Once the crowds are settled, and the devotees have prostrated themselves before the crosses, the performance itself begins.
Horses kicked up blood-stained dust as Roman cavalry galloped onto the mound to loud cheers. A gold plated centurion followed in a life-size chariot to more applause, before the sound of wailing rose over the loudspeaker.
The macabre stage was set for the entrance of Ruben Enaje, a 58-year-old who has been crucified every year for three decades. The actors weren’t holding back, and Ruben, in his role as Jesus was pushed violently to the ground by the legionaries in red cloaks that surrounded him.
He struggled to the top of the mound, where more Roman soldiers were preparing the wooden crosses for the crucifixion.
Visiting the Philippines Crucifixion isn’t for everyone. It’s a strange spectacle. It’s both brutal, while at the same time, almost country-show like in terms of atmosphere.
Families, tourists, film crews, and photographers gather in a field in San Pedro Cutud to watch, bringing along picnics, or buy fast food and drinks from the vendors that set up shop for a roaring day’s trade.
It’s a long day in the sun, and you’re best getting there early to see things unfold from the beginning. I arrived at 7 am, after a two-hour drive from Manilla. The actual Crucifixion itself doesn’t begin until around midday, but the schedule is flexible.
Anyone can show up, and there is an area reserved for spectators who are free of charge to enter but just be warned that it gets crowded.
There are also VIP and Press areas. If you want to join the VIP section, I’d suggest booking on with a company like Young Pioneer Tours who run a day tour here from Manilla and can arrange press passes and VIP tickets. They also arrange your transport to and from Manilla, making life easier on what is a hectic day.
If you are traveling independently, then you’ll need to take a bus north from Manilla to the City of San Fernando in Pampanga. From here, you’ll be able to find a tricycle driver to take you out to San Pedro Cutud, the actual Barangay where the event takes place.
The event is held on Good Friday every year.
